a little update, the beach life

May 14, 2011 at 2:17 am 4 comments

so a month has passed. a wonderful month, of sun and beach and fresh air and harmonious moments.

after Baeza i went to Canoa, a small coastal town a little south of the equator. it took all day to hitchhike from Quito and by the time we arrived it was dark, i was tired, and i hated my companion for standoffishly displaying all the qualities i hate within myself. a few days later we parted, although i tried to keep some kind of friendliness by visiting him and bringing him fruits. but he isolated himself and stared at me mockingly like i was a fool when we were together. here was the problem: he just wanted to be himself, which meant: passive, hostile, and distant. one of my worst qualities is a kind of verbally aggressive meanness that comes out unintentionally with people who are weak and stupid, and so relations quickly turned into a downward spiral with me finding fault with everything he said. it was an ugly situation and made me feel bad, firstly because i hate to instigate negative emotions and second, because i didn’t expect it to escalate into a complete break in the friendship. and third, because his arrival from Switzerland was long awaited, and had altered the course of my trip. had he not decided to come, i’d likely have gone to Peru through the jungle…

anyway, then Andrej came and we camped out in his tent in one of the camping grounds in Canoa, cooked delicious breakfasts in the morning, and swam all day.

a few days later we hitchhiked to Montañita, another coastal town about 250km south of Canoa and a lot more touristy. hitchhiking along the Ruta del Sol (“highway of the sun”) took us longer than expected and we spent a night camping out in Andrej’s tent on a cliff on the beach, washing ourself in the ocean under the full moon, being lulled to sleep by waves.

like most other south American coastal resort towns Montañita is full of “artesanians”, youth mostly from northern Argentina who make necklaces and bracelets out of string, metal, beads, and rocks they acquire along the way. they remind me of gypsies. always stoned, playful, and content to spend all day beside their little tables.

in Montañita i almost drowned. it happened because i felt invincible not knowing what a “tidal wave” is… the kind of wave that takes you under and pulls you far far away from where you were, into a strong current that pushes you out into the sea, into turbulent waters that want to drown you. the lifeguards who rescued me said it was the worst day of the month because of the position of the moon (it was 3 or 4 days after the full moon) and that on this day there were 5 of them instead of the usual 3 on duty. i had always thought that lifeguards were just like dolls on shelves, their purpose to evoke a placebo sense of safety. in Brooklyn, no one ever drowns. the lifeguards job is to take sun and flirt. but in Montañita…they work…. and had one of them not been using his binoculars to inspect the ocean yours truly might not be here today…

a video i took half hour later of 4 more men stuck behind the wave and several lifeguards trying to help them. it took about 20 minutes to get them to the shore…

after Montañita i went to Cuenca, which is the 3rd largest city in Ecuador and according to one Ecuadorian, the “Athens of Ecuador,” abounding with artistic activity.  the famous “Panama hat” is made here from the leaf of palm that grows in abundance. it carries the name of another country because it first became famous during the construction of the Panama canal when all the workers were wearing the hats, which were being shipped abroad through the canal from Ecuador. i’d bought one earlier… and then went into the ocean with it and watched it turn to nothing :(

after Cuenca i stopped in Guayaquil for 2 nights. Guayaquil is the largest city in Ecuador and i imagined it would be large beige industrial flat and barren, full of women who feed escopalomina to unsuspecting foreigners before they rob them of everything including their clothes. the drug is absorbed through the skin, so once chosen the target is defenseless. in one anecdote a woman received a hug from another who pretended to have mistook her for a friend…and several hours later she “woke up” on the street without her things and later learned her bank account had been cleared out. in another case, a man was sitting by himself in a park when an ugly woman sat next to him and started to talk. he avoided her but she insisted on using her napkin to clean up the drops of perspiration forming on the outside of his beer… and the next thing he recalled is wandering in his underwear through Guayaquil.

instead i had a very nice time in Guayaquil.. walked the 444 steps up the Malecon at night, saw the iguanas in the park, walked the streets comfortably at night. unlike Quito, which feels empty after sunset, Guayaquil is illuminated by lights and people, and feels safe and boisterous.

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Entry filed under: travel. Tags: , , , , , .

sun is shining how i spent my first day in Colombia…

4 Comments Add your own

  • 1. christopher  |  May 16, 2011 at 4:00 pm

    Rip tides are why I don’t go very deep on beaches. I read that if a person is ever captured in one, they mustn’t panic but realize that they are being pulled out to sea and must then think to swim parallel to the shore instead of against the tide back to the shore. Glad you are alive

    Reply
  • 2. Tory  |  May 31, 2011 at 6:10 am

    those scopolamine stories always terrified me. i take it you weren’t really impressed by “athens?” no posts in two weeks… where are you going next?

    Reply
  • 3. Dina  |  June 6, 2011 at 1:53 pm

    I have the same question. Where are you now?

    Reply
  • 4. alecs  |  October 18, 2011 at 4:03 pm

    классные зверюшки

    Reply

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